Letter 2009: You ask why, having set out for Nimes some time ago, I am prolonging your suspense by my delayed return.

Sidonius ApollinarisDonidius|c. 467 AD|Sidonius Apollinaris
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To Donidius.

You ask why, having set out for Nimes some time ago, I am prolonging your suspense by my delayed return. I give you the reasons for my tardiness without delay — for what delights me will delight you too. I have been spending the most pleasurable time among the most beautiful estates and the most gracious hosts — Ferreolus and Apollinaris [two wealthy Gallo-Roman landowners]. Their properties share a common boundary and their houses are neighbors, separated by a walk that tires a pedestrian but does not satisfy a rider. The hills above the houses are tended by vine-growers and olive-growers; you would think them Aracynthus and Nysa — those heights celebrated in poets' songs. One house looks out over flat open land, the other over woodland, but the different settings give equal pleasure.

But why dwell on the layout of the estates when I still need to describe the hospitality? First, the most vigilant scouts were deployed to intercept our return journey, and both households posted watchmen not only on the main roads but along twisting shortcuts and shepherds' paths, lest by some accident we should slip through their well-laid ambush of courtesies. We ran into them — willingly, I confess — and were immediately made to swear an oath that we would not think about continuing our journey for seven full days.

So every morning began with a delightful contest between the hosts over who would first welcome us to their kitchen. Fair rotation could hardly decide the matter, though one house had the claim of kinship with me and the other with my companions — for Ferreolus, as a former prefect, was granted the right of first invitation by both seniority and rank.

We were swept from one delight to the next. The moment we crossed a threshold: on one side, pairs of ball-players whirling through acrobatic passes; on the other, the rattle of dice-boxes and the clattering of game-pieces amid the cries of competing players. Books were everywhere in abundance — you could have imagined yourself among the shelves of a school, the tiers of an Athenaeum, or a bookseller's well-stocked stall. The volumes near the ladies' chairs were religious works; those by the gentlemen's couches were distinguished by the grand style of Latin eloquence. Though different authors of different subjects maintained a comparable level of excellence: here Augustine, there Varro; here Horace, there Prudentius.

Among these, the works of Origen as translated by Rufinus were carefully inspected by our readers — and we debated, each according to his taste, why this author had been condemned as a dangerous commentator by some of the leading churchmen, even though his translation was so faithful that neither Apuleius translating Plato's Phaedo nor Cicero translating Demosthenes' Ctesiphon had rendered their originals into Latin so accurately.

While we were each occupied with these pursuits as we pleased, a messenger would arrive from the head cook announcing that it was time to nourish our bodies — a reminder whose punctuality was confirmed by the advancing hours on the water-clock. Lunch was brief but plentiful, in the senatorial manner — where the established custom is to serve many dishes on few plates, though the meal varies between roast and stewed courses. Over drinks, we exchanged little stories chosen to amuse and instruct us — stories doubly seasoned with laughter and learning. In short, we were treated with holiness, beauty, and abundance.

When we rose, if we were at Vorocingus [one estate's name], we returned to our lodgings and baggage. If at Prusiana [the other estate], we turned the sons — Tonantius and his brothers, the finest young nobles of their generation — out of their own beds, since our own bedding was not regularly carted between the two houses. After shaking off the midday torpor, we rode for a while to sharpen appetites dulled by lunch for the evening dinner.

Both hosts had baths in their buildings, though neither used them regularly. But whenever the thirsty crowd of my attendants and servants — over whose brains the hospitable bowls had gained too much dominion — finally stopped drinking, a trench was quickly dug near a spring or stream. Heated stones were tossed into it, and the smoking pit was covered with an arched frame of bent hazel-rods, then draped with Cilician cloths to block the light and trap the steam that the sprinkled water struck from the red-hot rocks.

Here we passed the hours in pleasant and witty conversation, and amid the billowing haze, a most wholesome sweat was drawn from our pores. When we had had enough, we plunged into baths of heated water; then, our sluggishness dissolved by the warmth, we solidified ourselves again in the cold of a well, a spring, or the river. For between the houses runs the Vardo — a river that, unless swollen with melting snow, runs clear and red over its golden gravel, transparent, quiet, and stony-bottomed, yet no less rich in delicious fish.

I would describe the dinners too — and lavish ones they were — if the page itself did not impose a limit that modesty has not. The retelling would make charming listening, but I would be ashamed to soil the back of this letter with my dripping pen. And since I too am about to set out, and plan — God willing — to visit you shortly, I can recount our friends' dinners more conveniently over our own, once the completion of this cherished week restores us to our proper hunger. For nothing repairs a stomach ruined by feasting better than abstinence. Farewell.

Modern English rendering for readability. See the 19th-century translation or original Latin/Greek for scholarly use.

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